Supply List for Putting Together Wood Kits
Here's what you'll need for most of the MiniEtchers kits 

1. Cutting mat
2. Razor knife (like X-ACTO®)
3. Sandpaper, fine grit (or an emery board)
4. Tacky Glue (like Aleene's® Original)
5. Toothpicks to apply glue
6. Acrylic paint or stain
7. Tweezers
8. Alcohol and cotton swab to remove laser char (optional)
9. Clamps (optional but the bonds will be stronger if you clamp)
10. Gluing jig, optional (I also like to use small LEGO® blocks)​

If you have questions about assembly of a kit please email me at [email protected], I am happy to help. If a part arrives broken, please allow me to send a replacement. 

My Manufacturing Process
MiniEtcher kits are designed by either the founder, Shellie, or me, Karen. They are then cut by a local laser cutter who specializes in miniatures. At the moment I out-source the printing of my 3D designs. I package and ship everything from my home  office in Marietta, Georgia, USA.

I recently purchased an Anycubic Mono X resin 3D printer to be able to print in-house! By this winter I intend to purchase my own laser cutter and bring that part of the process in-house too. Bringing the manufacturing in-house allows me to control the costs and pass the savings on to you. I will also be able to create custom kits or new designs for you more quickly.

How-to Videos
Every MiniEtcher kit comes with written instructions. As I release more kits to the new laser cutter, I am creating how-to videos for each one. They're on my Youtube Channel. Please subscribe! When I get to 100 subscribers, I'll be able to have an actual youtube channel name rather than a gobbledy gook list of characters as the address.

MiniEtchers Wood Product Tips

• All new kits will be shipped attached in the surrounding matrix wood with very small tabs. This allows me to be certain there are no missing pieces. You will need to cut the tabs with a very sharp knife and lightly sand away any snags. Effort is being made to use very small and as few tabs as possible.
• Use a toy block to ensure the pieces dry at right angles.  (I like LEGO® 2x2 squares for 1:48 scale and bigger LEGO® DUPLO® 2x2 and 2x4 blocks for 1:24 scale.) Accurate right angles are the most important thing to make your furniture look its best.
• Use glue sparingly! Avoiding glue blobs is the second most important thing to make your furniture look great.​​
• ​I recommend a good quality wood glue or tacky glue to assemble the kits.  
• It is easier to hold if you leave the pieces in the matrix to stain them​
• Apply paint in thin layers, allowing each layer to dry completely before adding another. It's better to apply several thin layers of paint rather than one thick layer.
• I use quality hardwood, maple, for my kits. But even so, when you paint wood it has a tendency to warp. Paint BOTH sides of the wood, even if it won’t show. This will keep warping to a minimum.
• Laser cut products will sometimes have charred edges. Light sanding with a very fine grit sandpaper will remove some of the dark color if you prefer.
• Using a q-tip dipped in denatured alcohol and rubbing along edges also diminishes the charred look.
• If painting your kit, first paint the charred edges, let dry and then paint two very fine coats. This helps diminish the charred edges. 
• To highlight the intricate carving in the Eastlake kits, I first apply an antique "wash" then rub it off. The dark color stays down in the small carved places.

Show me what you've done!
I welcome your input, tips, hints and comments. I also love to post pictures of finished kits. Please send your pictures to [email protected] and give me permission to post on my site.

3D Printed Model Tips

• It is easier to paint the models that are on tabs as you can hold the base on your hand or with alligator clips or locking tweezers.
• Apply paint in thin layers, allowing each layer to dry completely before adding another. It's better to apply several thin layers of paint rather than one thick layer.
• ​If you have a model with hollow parts, you can paint the interior too. Keep in mind that this material is translucent, so any paint you add to interior parts may be outwardly visible. The final step is to seal the paint with a sealer.
• ​Once dry you can clip the items from the tabs using a flush cutter. If you choose to use small sharp scissors you may have difficulty leaving a small bit of the tab behind. If this happens use a single edge razor to shave off the remaining tab.​
• The 3D prints should not need to be cleaned. They've been processed in a "wash and cure" station using Isopropyl Alcohol. However, if you find "resindue" on your part, it can be cleaned using a toothpick or a cotton swab. The easiest way to de-grease the models is to submerge them into a mild solution of hot water and dish soap. Let the parts soak for a couple of hours, the water may turn cloudy as wax and oil separate from your models - you can repeat this process without harming your parts if necessary.

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Special Web Sites

Visit Grace's Virtual Dollhouse Marketplace online at VirtualDollhouse.net . If you're in the Maryland area, be sure and make an appointment to visit in person. She carries 1:144 scale, 1:48 (quarter scale), 1:24 (half scale) 1:12 (one inch scale) and other small scales. She has a full lumber yard of scale lumber and carries Metal Miniatures. This is a full service shop; you can even see some of my MiniEtchers kits! 

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